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Platinum Jewelry - Tips, Tricks & Care

Platinum Jewelry is a pleasure to wear and a pleasure to create with.  Platinum is more pliable than gold and as such lends itself to a variety of design options that other metals simply do not.  Platinum is more durable than other metals.  Platinum is stronger, wears better and lasts longer.  Investing in platinum jewelry is like purchasing anything else of higher quality, you simply get more for your money when you buy platinum because it will wear better, last longer and requires less service.

Platinum is Purer than Gold

Most platinum jewelry is 90 - 95% pure, whereas 18 karat gold is 75% pure and 14k gold is only 58.5% pure.  All of the various alloys used to manufacture fine jewelry contains a blend of other metals, platinum simply has less.  The presence of other alloys in white gold is what causes it to oxidize, face and change color over time.  Because platinum is purer than gold, it doesn't fade or change color and it retains it retains a polish longer.  The pure white luster of platinum reflects the true brilliance of diamonds and provides the best setting for most precious gems.  The combination of platinum and yellow gold creates a perfect balance of two tonal values for people who prefer warmer tones.

Platinum is Hypo Allergenic

Platinum's purity makes it the perfect alloy for people with sensitive skin.  Because platinum is more pure than gold and has been mixed less metal than other alloys used to create jewelry, it does not cause allergic reactions.  People who suffer from allergic reactions when they wear gold jewelry in their ears or who experience rashes on their fingers when wearing gold jewelry should consider platinum.

Platinum is Rarer than Gold

Platinum is thirty five times rarer than gold.  Platinum is found in only a few places throughout the world.  At present, most platinum mining is done in South Africa and Russia and to a lesser extent in Zimbabwe, Canada and South America.  It takes eight weeks and 10 tons of ore to produce a single ounce (31.1 grams) of platinum, whereas only five tons of ore are mined to produce the same amount of gold!  And for every ten gold mines that exists in the world, there is only one platinum mine.  During the average year, approximately 2,700 tons of gold are used in the process of manufacturing jewelry but only 88 tons of platinum are used to make jewelry.  Platinum seems to cost more than gold at first glance, but upon further study it becomes clear that the higher cost of platinum is simply due to the fact that platinum is purer than gold and much more rare.

The Density of Platinum Makes it more Durable

Platinum's density and weight make it more durable than other jewelry metals.  A six inch cube of platinum which measures approximately 15 centimeters cubed weighs 165 pounds (75 kg) which is almost as much as the average man!  Platinum is also resistant to heat and acids and has a higher melting point than gold (3,223°F / 1,768°C) and requires special equipment for casting into jewelry.  Platinum doesn't wear away as other jewelry metals do, it holds diamonds and other gemstones firmly and securely.  All metals can be scratched and displaced however, a scratch on a platinum piece of jewelry is merely a displacement of the metal.  The primary difference between gold and platinum jewelry in terms of the displacement of metal caused by a scratch is that with platinum the metal has merely been relocated whereas gold has a tendency to wear away and decrease in volume.  If visible scratches appear on platinum, it can be re-polished by a qualified jeweler without substantial loss to the piece.  Perhaps this is why platinum has been used to fashion the jewelry for some of the world's most precious gems including the Koh-I-Nor Diamond which is part of the British Crown Jewels.

The Versatility of Platinum

In addition to its strength and durability, platinum is also extremely versatile.  Platinum is so pliable that a single gram of platinum can be drawn into a fine wire that stretches out for more than a mile (almost 2 km) in length while retaining it's strength.  This quality has enabled jewelers the world over to produce  exquisite detailed designs in platinum that could not be made in any other metal.

General Care for Your Platinum Jewelry

• Store platinum jewelry separate from other jewelry items so that they do not scratch or get scratched by your other jewelry items.  Place your jewelry in a jewelry box or a chamois bag.

• Store your platinum jewelry and other precious items in a safe place such as a personal safe or safety deposit box.

• Maintain adequate insurance for your valuables.  If you are unsure about the value of your platinum jewelry and other valuables, take then to an independent appraiser for valuation.

• Clean your platinum jewelry periodically.  This will ensure its fine appearance and will help it last.

• Clean platinum in the same way you clean other fine jewelry - using a pre-packaged jewelry cleaner or by soaking it in a mild solution of 50% ammonia and 50% warm water and then gently rubbing it with a soft cloth.  Note that harsh chemicals such as ammonia should not be used on gemstones other than diamonds because it may damage them - consult a jewelry professional in-person for specific guidance in this matter as it applies to specific jewelry items.

• Have your platinum jewelry polished and cleaned by a qualified jeweler twice a year and more often if scratches appear.  Remember that all metal can be scratched, however with platinum the metal has merely been displaced.

• Take your platinum jewelry to a qualified jeweler twice per year for inspection.  Only allow a trained professional jeweler to work on your platinum jewelry!  Adjustments, resizing, polishing and cleaning of your platinum jewelry should be provided by a trained bench jeweler.  We can't tell you how many times we have repaired platinum jewelry that has been resized using white gold by some jeweler who should never have been working on a platinum jewelry item to begin with!

• Be aware that over time platinum develops a natural patina that many people prefer over the "just polished" appearance of platinum.  When this happens to your platinum jewelry you may take it to a qualified jeweler and have the item polished for that "high gloss" look or simply ask them not to remove the patina if that is your preference.

• Do not wear your platinum or other fine jewelry when doing home cleaning, gardening, or other types of heavy work or manual labor.  Jewelry is designed to be decorative, not indestructable.

• Do not wear your platinum or other fine jewelry when working with bleach or other harsh chemicals.  Although the chemicals may not affect the platinum, they may discolor diamonds and other gemstones and can cause an allergic reaction with your skin if trapped between the ring and your finger ☺

Basic Platinum Product Knowledge

The Technical Basics of Platinum:

• Weight of Platinum: 21.45 grams per cubic centimeter.

• Melting point of Platinum: 1.768°C (3,223°F)

• Mining Platinum: 10 tons of ore are mined to obtain one ounce (31.1 grams) of pure metal.

• Refining Platinum: It takes eight weeks to make a platinum ingot from the ore.

• Platinum Production: Each year approximately 80 tons of platinum are made into jewelry.

• Properties or Platinum: Catalyst, hypoallergenic, resistant to heat and acids.

• Platinum group metals: Ruthenium, Palladium, Rhodium, Iridium, Osmium.

• Measuring the perfection of Platinum: 1,000 parts - 100% platinum.

While the gold content of a jewelry item is indicated by a karat stamp, the content of platinum is displayed in parts per thousand.  This is because gold is measured in parts per hundred and platinum is measured in parts per thousand.  Thus while gold jewelry might be stamped as being 10k, 14k, 18k or 22k, platinum will be stamped 500, 850, 900, 950, etc.  Note that if the alloy content is stamped on a jewelry item, then by U.S. Law the manufacturer of the item must also be identified by a stamp that designates their identity in the form of a Hallmark which will appear along with the alloy stamp and look similar to the old fashioned brands that ranchers stamped on their cattle.